It’s been the fashion staple for more than a century and it goes without saying that every man needs at least one great-looking suit in their wardrobe that fits like a glove and makes them feel confident. RETO PETER, co-founder of leading made-to-measure tailors Edit Suits Co, shares his expertise on this season’s key trends and how to wear them
WHY OWN A SUIT?
Two years of Zoom calls in their sweatpants and many men have forgotten the joy of being suited and booted. But the classic two- or three-piece is making a post-pandemic return and we’re definitely here for that. Whether you’re inspired from James Bond’s super sharp tailoring or Harry Styles’ contemporary take, if you want to be taken seriously now we’re back in the real-life boardroom, a suit really means business.
THE NAVY SUIT
Guaranteed to always be in fashion, if you’re only going to own one suit then buy navy and you’ll fit in whatever the occasion. This most classic of colours immediately implies professionalism; added to that it works with every complexion. To keep it modern, opt for a peak lapel, single-breasted design and slim, tailored fit for a masculine and always elegant look.
THE CHARCOAL SUIT
Supremely versatile, charcoal teams perfectly with brown or tan accessories, and can be dressed up or down depending on the venue. As a styling tip, when it comes to a two-button suit only button the top button, never both; and if you’re wearing a waistcoat, again never fasten the bottom button. You’ll find it sits better and looks sharper.
THE TUX … BLACK OR WHITE?
The best way to nail this look is to stick with tradition, and that means choosing a single-breasted jacket with a peaked or shawl lapel. Black is the obvious choice; while white is better suited for summer weddings or formal outdoor events, keep it classic with black grosgrain trousers. Team with a turned down, pointed collar shirt and if you don’t know how to tie a bow tie, opt for the pre-tied version – do not, and I repeat do not, buy a clip-on. Shoe-wise, polished Oxfords are really the only way to go and avoid anything with tassels or elaborate stitching.
When the invite says “smart casual” it can be confusing to know just what to wear: do you go smart or do you go casual? My advice is to lean towards the smart, that way you won’t feel out of place when you turn up in jeans and everyone else turns up in a suit. One of the season’s key colour trends is deep green and it can easily be worn with a classic white T-shirt, button-down shirt or plain roll-neck depending on the time of year. Pair with a stylish Chelsea boot or even a white trainer for a modern edge.
More and more men are opting to team their suit jackets with more casual trousers, such as chinos, light flannel or corduroy and these are all the ideal choice for any business/casual outfit. You can play around with a range of colours that work well with a contrasting jacket – opt for lightweight fabrics like merino or cotton during the warmer days, and cashmere during the winter – or finish off the look with a classic trench or overcoat.
A FEW RULES TO BEAR IN MIND
Your accessories should complement the colour or pattern of your suit. For example, if you’re wearing a patterned suit, opt for simple neckwear and vice versa.
Your shoes should be appropriate for the occasion. While there are plenty of instances where trainers are okay with a suit, a top notch do isn’t one of them.
Don’t overdo it with accessories – they should be used to enhance your outfit, not clutter it.
Buy a suit that you love. If simple, navy suits are your thing, go for a simple, navy suit; if double breasted suits strike your fancy, get one! There’s no rule against what you can and can’t wear, just always make sure it fits properly.
And consider going for made-to-measure – that way, you can choose the fit, customise sleeve lengths and even choose lapel width or back vents.
Edit Suits was founded in 2014 by Reto Peter and Patrick Jungo offering made-to-measure Savile Row suiting and casual clothing without the hefty price tag. The brand has recently launched its first UK store outside London in Birmingham’s Mailbox. For more details visit www.editsuits.com